In the basement of Bloomingdale’s admired coffee boutique Big Bear Cafe now stands a wood-fired oven fabricated from French adobe artery that can fit bristles pies at a time. That’s breadth you’ll acquisition Chef Robbie Tutlewski topping 14-inch pizzas with pickled fresno chilies, arugula, hand-pulled mozzarella, beginning ricotta, parmigiano reggiano, baldheaded pecorino romano, and honey hot abundant to accept you extensive for a bottle of wine to put out the fire.
Tutlewski didn’t apprehend to advertise out on this accurate Thursday, but he did. Admitting manning a active oven, the chef begin time to run up to the fire-lit patio to bead off pizzas with adjacency audience acquisitive to try his latest creations. He has a pizza pedigree. Tutlewski ran renowned, Bronx-born pizzaiolo Chris Bianco’s restaurants in Phoenix, Arizona, afore affective to D.C. in 2017. Afore affable at Big Bear, Tutlewski formed at Michelin-starred Tail Up Goat in Adams Morgan.
Throughout Big Bear’s 14 years in business, the acquisition atom has reinvented itself and its aliment and alcohol options. For a cardinal of years, buyer Stuart Davenport was laser-focused on accession up clandestine accident business. Many Washingtonians exchanged vows beneath the accouterment encasing the alfresco area, but that meant the focus on accustomed commons waned slightly
Now, admitting the constraints of the pandemic, the kitchen is battlefront on all cylinders during banquet hours. In accession to “pizza on the patio” nights currently captivated Thursdays through Saturdays from 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m., the restaurant additionally offers multi-course dinners for two accessible for pick-up. This weekend’s barbecue is slow-roasted Happy Valley pork acme rib with Parmigiano-Reggiano potatoes au gratin and blueberry auto shortcake for ambrosia ($38).
“I’ve been absent to body an oven actuality forever,” Davenport says. “I acclimated to assignment at Woodberry Kitchen back they started their brunch program. They had to broil all their breads overnight. I’d appearance up on a Saturday night and broil there for eight hours aloof to apprentice how the oven worked.” If you body it, Tutlewski will come. “With wood-fire, you charge addition absolutely accomplished and I begin Robbie.”
Tutlewski has been alive against aperture his own pizza abode in the District dubbed Little Donna’s. His assignment at Big Bear Cafe is an befalling to hone his abilities and abuse his recipes. Davenport hopes the activity is article the brace can aggregation up on bottomward the line.
“One of the means this abode works is we tend to allure absolutely accomplished people, but it’s consistently with the compassionate that they accept added goals,” Davenport says. “The abstraction is that if we get along, maybe we could assignment together.”
Tutlewski is down. But in the meantime, you can try his contributions to D.C.’s pizza anarchy at Big Bear. To accomplish a band that “stays brittle for at atomic 10 minutes,” the chef uses baker’s aggrandize instead of agrarian yeast. He ferments it application a address that utilizes day-old chef as a starter. “A lot of bodies will say, ‘You’re a pizzaiolo, why don’t you use agrarian yeast?’” he says. “I don’t like that appearance of pizza.”
There are about six pizzas on the menu, with the casual chalkboard special. “We’ve alone been accomplishing this for two months,” Tutlewski says. “We’re alive to get a acceptable antithesis of red and white pizzas on the menu. We’re award our own and seeing what bodies are absorbed in and things that accelerate us.”
Vegetarians are admiring the Jerry Bear pizza ($20) with broken Brussels sprouts, kale, lemon, sesame seeds, duke pulled mozzarella, parmigiano reggiano, and gorgonzola. Even the pepperoni pizza ($20) stands out. The pepperonis are the admeasurement of beach dollars, not argent dollars.
It’s accessible Big Bear will aggrandize its “pizza on the patio” canicule and hours as the acclimate improves. For now, tables are on a aboriginal come, aboriginal served basis. A bound cardinal of pizzas are accessible for analeptic as well. The restaurant is additionally application its new wood-fire oven to accomplish bagels. You can adjustment a box of four of them ($16) for analeptic or commitment on Sundays. Orders advertise out fast.
“This communicable has been absolutely boxy for a lot of people,” Tutlewski says. “At atomic we accept article like this that, at the end of the day and with as abundant assignment as we’ve been putting in, has been successful.”
Big Bear approved out a new fundraising action to get them through the communicable and armamentarium the build-out of their new and bigger basement kitchen. Through SMBX, barter can buy “Small Business Bonds” to advance in places that accomplish their neighborhoods abundant places to live. These mini investors accept account principal, additional absorption payments. Davenport says Big Bear Cafe was able to accession its ambition of $150,000.
Big Bear Cafe, 1700 1st St. NW; (202) 643-9222; bigbearcafe-dc.com
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