To bless Women’s History Month (March 1 – March 31), we accept scoped out some of the best agitative arising changeable appearance designers to apperceive now. These designers are testing both their address and the traditional, arena with everything, from silicone and upcycled bolt to balaclavas and brawl gowns.
Already beat by the cast of Dua Lipa and Celeste, who both accept fingers durably of the appearance pulse, watch as these women pave the way for the abutting bearing of fashion.
Here are ELLE UK’s aces of tomorrow’s best agitative aptitude arising afore our actual eyes.
1 RUI – Rui Zhou
Founder and artisan Rui Zhou, who accelerating from Parsons School of Architecture aback in 2018, went on to barrage her eponymous label, RUI, in 2019.
After actuality alleged as one of the 2018 CFDA Architecture Graduates, Zhou went on to appearance three times at NYFW and is accepting band cachet on amusing media with her spiderweb knitted designs.
Rui, who was built-in in Hunan, is now based in both Shanghai and New York, agreeable her time amid studios.
In February this year, Dua Lipa – who loves to favour an arising artisan – appeared on the awning of Rolling Stone in abounding RUI, authoritative Zhou absolutely one to watch.
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2 No Sesso – Pierre Davis
No Sesso is a cast that’s all about adulatory community, identity, alteration and best of all allotment those who abrasion it.
Based in Los Angeles, the cast was founded by appearance artisan Pierre Hommes who has taken her characterization from backbone to backbone alongside Autumn Randolph and Arin Hayes.
Founded in 2015, No Sesso, which agency ‘no sex/no gender’ in Italian, favours bright knits, beautifully ablaze colour palettes and embroidery.
The cast afresh appear via Instagram that they’re alive adamantine to accomplishment their SS21 collection, which will be accessible to appearance on the NYFW website, as anon as possible, so watch this space.
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3 HRH – Hannah Hopkins
Founder and artisan Hannah Hopkins launched her admission AW21 accessories accumulating as allotment of Appearance East’s new band up, giving us behemothic scrunchies, hoods, pants and pouches aplenty.
Hopkins, who originally began her career in apparel design, has been active designing and creating accessories aback 2018.
Known for her ‘extreme scrunchies’, and assurance us aback we say they’re giant, HRH has now developed into a absolutely fledged accessories characterization application acceptable abstracts such as recycled bottles.
On what inspires her, HRH’s Hannah Hopkins tells ELLE UK: ‘I don’t accept one individual, but I am aggressive by a added association of absurd women and non-binary bodies authoritative work, speaking out and alteration things for the better.’
And on the future? ‘I’m so aggressive by the absolute acknowledgment and accessible to go into assembly so anybody can accept a bit of HRH.’
4 Katya Zelentsova
Knitwear clothier Katya Zlentsova abstracts with aggregate yarn related, from form-fitting accomplished knits and 3D knitted flowers to abundant sleeves and puffball skirts.
After admission from Central Saint Martin (CSM), Zelentova went on to barrage collections in 2018 and 2020 application offcuts and asleep banal yarns, ensuring anniversary allotment crafted is a one of a affectionate creation.
The designer’s cast colourful knits and anatomy flossing acme are accepting her an anytime growing amusing following. Beat best afresh by the aerial Celeste for a video performance, it’s bright Zelentsova is one to accumulate on your radar.
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5 Sonia Carrasco
CSM alumni Sonia Carrasco, who best afresh presented her additional abounding accumulating at London Appearance Week for AW21, is continuously appetite to apprentice and assignment in a the best amenable way she can.
Alongside a abounding collections of ribbed knits in beiges and greens, cut out dressmaking and abundant trousers was abbreviate film, ‘#SCAVETHEARTS’, a beautifully attempt allotment interpreted by ballerina Carla Cervantes.
Having ahead formed for above appearance houses Celine and Alexander McQueen, Carrasco is now able-bodied on her way to actuality a big hitter in the apple of womenswear.
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6 ELLISS – Elliss Solomon
Designer Elliss Solomon launched ELLISS aback in 2016 afterwards graduating. Initially absent to assignment for a acceptable brand, Solomon went on to begin her own aggregation with the appearance of locally sourcing and bearing the pieces and minimising waste.
A CSM alumni, Solomon’s collections, beat by Gigi Hadid, focus on creating womenswear from abstracts such as bamboo and hemp, anxiously crafting apparel to actualize as little decay as possible.
During the 2020 lockdowns Solomon was heavily complex with CSM’s action in which designers would accomplish scrubs for the NHS.
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7 Helen Kirkum Studio Ltd.
Helen Kirkum, who founded her cast in 2019, is a London-based artisan and artist, admission from London’s Royal College of Art aback in 2016.
Since then, Kirkum has gone from backbone to backbone accommodating with brands beyond the globe, accepting all-embracing acclamation for her charge to up-cycling and adjustment agitative products.
Having already formed with designers such as Bethany Williams and sustainability focused artisan Matthew Needham, not to acknowledgment industry giants such as Adidas and Lacoste, Kirkum has anchored her abode in the industry.
In February this year, Kirkum launched her latest activity with Helen Kirkum x Reebok Advanced Concepts Zig Kinetica II which sees an ultra-limited accumulating of 20 handmade trainers crafted from accomplished materials. Of course, it didn’t booty continued for these to advertise out.
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8 Paolina Russo
After assuming her BA accumulating aback in 2018, Russo has been blue-blooded as ‘one to watch’ by abounding a appearance critic, and you can see why.
Since admission from CSM, Paolina went on to win the coveted L’Oreal Professional Young Aptitude Accolade and has interned with the cast of John Galliano at Maison Margiela. Refining her craft, Russo’s collections assignment on developing new knitting techniques, accumulation upcycling and acceptable practices.
Russo generally works carefully with Adidas, transforming their Superstar trainer into her cast stomper boots and heels, bottomward her Paolina Russo x Adidas accord aback in September 2020 which is accessible to buy on ASOS.
This is aloof the alpha for Russo.
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9 Rua Carlota – Charlotte Rose Kirkham
Championed as one of the best knitwear brands you bare to apperceive aftermost year, Rua Carlota was founded by self-taught appearance artisan Chorlotte Rose Kirkham as a claimed project.
The pieces themselves are one-offs which ‘challenge decay culture’ by application asleep banal and pre-loved materials. Kirkham herself is a alum in Mathematics, experimenting as she goes.
Rua Carlota has been apparent on the cast of Normani and Rimon so accumulate your eyes bald for the latest drops.
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10 Beate Karlson – AVAVAV & Pyer Moss
A appearance artisan with abounding strings to her bow. Already airtight up by Pyer Moss in New York and Florence based AVAVAV, breadth she leads their Creative Direction, Karlson works on her own eponymous label, too.
You may accept apparent these behemothic monstrous, yet fantastic, monster anxiety beyond your Insta feeds in the contempo weeks and they’re all acknowledgment to Beate.
Focusing on silicone work, New York-based Karlson plays with the account of admeasurement in her designs. One iconic allotment is the brace of silicone ‘butt shorts’ which accord the wearer a Kim Kardashian West-like derrière.
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11 Stephanie Uhart
Introducing Stephanie Uhart who is alteration up the knitwear scene.
Graduating in 2020 from CSM, the London-based designer’s assignment has already been featured by the cast of Harpers Bazaar, AnOther and was apparent on RuPaul’s Drag Race UK (on Awhora, if you adorned a nosy).
Uhart’s latest accumulating uses acrylic to actualize bedlam one off pieces and her iconic pieces are the calamus affiliate dresses advancing in a bubble of colours.
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12 MYAE – Mia Joseph
Knitwear characterization MYAE’s architect Mia is a London-based knitwear artisan who has already acceptable her cult-label title. The cast is admired by Jorja Smith’s stylist Leah Abbott, which abandoned should acquaint you aggregate you charge to know.
A CSM Textile Book Graduate, Mia has congenital up this cast Ablution in Depop aback in 2019 and activity from backbone to strength.
The cast bound took off with MYAE’s signature overlocked appearance anon bustling up beyond Instagram and beat by the cast of Maya Jama and Jordyn Woods.
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13 Sindiso Khumalo
Founder of the self-titled cast is Sindiso, the London-based artisan has a accumulating of accolades already beneath her belt. Champ of the Green Carpet Accolade in 2020, Khumalo was additionally a finalist for the 2020 LVMH Prize.
Sindiso aims to actualize acceptable bolt which focus on her Zulu and Ndebele heritage, creating prints and fabrics by duke application techniques such as baptize colours and collage.
Talks of a Net-A-Porter affiliation are alpha to broadcast so be abiding to accumulate your eyes and aerial on this designer.
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14 Aurélie Fontan
You may (you absolutely will) recognise the two models actuality from a diminutive little appearance alleged Bridgerton.
Designer Aurélie Fontan teamed up with The British Appearance Council and Netflix aback in January 2020 to actualize some looks fit for television royalty.
Born in Paris and now based in the UK, Aurélie launched her characterization aback in 2018 afterwards admission from the Royal College of Art. Best recently, Fontan was awarded the London Mayor Entrepreneur Accolade in 2020.
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15 Kiko Kostadinov – Laura & Deanna Fanning
Kiki Kostadinov is a cast that should already be on your radar. If not, analysis them out. The ablaze accuracy abaft their womenswear collections are appearance artisan duo are Laura and Deanna Fanning.
Making their admission with an autumn/winter accumulating aback in 2019 and with a host of collaborations already beneath their belt, such as iconic cossack cast Asics and band accessories characterization Medea, we apperceive the brace are set to abide accomplishing abundant things.
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16 Grete Henri – Grete Moeller
At the beginning of the TikTok abnormality #regencycore is Grete Moeller. As allotment of the SHOWStudio Class of 2020, and a Ravensborne Graduate, Grete is recreating 16th Century-inspired looks with her collections.
From full-on acute Renaissance dresses, all abounding skirts and flounces, to anatomy applicable knitted slips, Moeller has dressed the cast of Shygirl and Stefflon Don. Stay acquainted for added august goodness.
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17 Saskia Lenaerts
Award-winning menswear artisan Saskia Lenaerts is arch the way for a new bearing of appearance talent, application upcycling and repurposing deadstock and army surplus.
Key pieces from her accumulating ‘Dis Arming’ are the ‘Immunity Parker’, beat by Adwoa Aboah for the September affair of ELLE UK, and the ‘Buffer Puffer’.
Lenaerts launched her latest accumulating during Lisbon Appearance Week in October 2020 as a abbreviate blur in accord with Jebí Labembika.
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18 WED Studio – Amy Trinh
One bisected of WED Studio is Amy Trinh who works alongside Evan Phillips. The label, launched in 2019, is reinventing the acceptable ‘occasion wear’ application deadstock fabrics to actualize ready-to-wear collections alongside conjugal and one off red-carpet accessible looks.
Turning acceptable bells dresses on their head, the pieces comedy with what an accouterments for a appropriate break can and will be.
Their latest accumulating for SS21 sees the barrage of ‘Bow Bags’ while antecedent collections accept been apparent in Interview Magazine and, again, beat by emerging-designer-lover Celeste.
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19 Peachy Den – Isabella Weatherby
Instagram favourite Peach Den is founded by appearance artisan Isabella Weatherby, who is creating the ultimate day-to-night lewks that are both carnal and comfortable.
Already admired by Princess Nokia, Maya Jama and Zara Larson, to name a few, Den’s key pieces accommodate clover Kernel jumpsuits and cottony two pieces.
Founded clearly in 2019 afterwards starting off as a ancillary hustle, anniversary Peachy allotment is carefully crafted in Isabella’s bounded breadth in London, with the aim of minimising ecology impacts. We’re sold.
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20 Di Petsa
Founder Dimitra Petsa initially launched Di Petsa afterwards admission from Central Saint Martins aback in 2018.
Focusing on the account of the wearer actuality the aerialist for the garment, Petsa’s achievement roots – accepting advised achievement art afore appearance – are bright to see.
Petsa’s latest accessible to abrasion collection; ‘I Am My Own Mother’ was appear during Paris Appearance Week. Accomplished collections accept gone on to be huge hits, with bespoke pieces for Kylie Jenner and FKA Twigs. The accumulating has become an Instagram-favourite, with the cobweb ‘Wet’ knickers proving to be a charge have.
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21 POSTER GIRL – Natasha Somerville & Francesca Capper
Needing little addition is POSTER GIRL, but do you apperceive the names abaft the brand?
Co-founders Natasha Somerville and Francesca Capper avowal an absorbing collective CV, amid them alive for the cast of Christian Dior, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano and Jeremy Scott.
Somerville and Capper launched the characterization in 2017 and accept not looked aback with POSTER GIRL bound acceptable a pop-culture favourite apparent on anybody from Kylie Jenner and Selena Gomez to Dua and Doja Cat.
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22 Immoral London – Aimee Belle Johnson
Giving us the Gen Z booty on corsetry, Aimee Belle Johnson is the appearance artisan abaft band cachet characterization Immoral London.
With 2020’s lockdown acid abbreviate her degree, Johnson launched on Instagram and Depop and began demography DM orders. Added afresh Aimee has collaborated with Honey Drippin Prints on a collection.
Pieces are crafted from deadstock fabrics or sourced abstracts from markets, eBay and car cossack sales.
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23 AGR Knitwear – Alicia Robinson
Arguably a artisan who has already able-bodied and absolutely ’emerged’ assimilate the appearance scene, AGR is absolutely one to accept on your radar.
Behind the characterization is Alicia Robinson, who has formed with A Cold Wall and Yeezy, who has taken AGR advanced this year by ablution the aboriginal abounding accessible to abrasion accumulating for AW21.
Specialising in knitwear, the consciousness-expanding prints and colour palettes are Robinson’s cast style. Antecedent designs are already abounding on Browns Appearance and Ssense.com. We address you and your knitting needles, Robinson.
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24 HELMSTEDT – Emilie Helmstedt
Copenhagen-based cast HELMSTEDT is the pastel-coloured womenswear cast created by Emilie Helmstedt.
Helmstedt accelerating from Royal College of Accomplished Arts, and went on to acquisition HELMSTEDT in 2018. With a big afterward mounting, 2020 saw the cast shortlisted for the approved LVMH Prize.
With arts at the centre of the brand, anniversary book in duke corrective by Emilie herself and HELMSTEDT is fast acceptable a Copenhagen Appearance Week must-see. Already beat by the cast of Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid, the cast is set for big things.
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25 Ancuta Sarca
Fashion East alumni, artisan Ancuta Sarca is alteration the cossack landscape. Afterward her admission accumulating in 2019, Sarca showed alert added with Appearance East afore activity it alone.
The characterization has gone on to be abounding in abounding of the affluence retailers afterward a Nike accord for antecedent collections.
Sarca’s access to designing comes with a sustainability focus, upcycling alms boutique heels and old Nike trainers in the aboriginal days. If that wasn’t already enough, she’s additionally been abundantly accustomed by none added than Cher – does it get bigger than that?
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26 Maxine Beiny
Inspired by the trials and tribulations of the avant-garde dating scene, Beiny’s namesake characterization gives us acceptable slogans with catchbasin acme account ‘I’ll appearance you how it’s done’ and ‘Now I’ve got your attention’, and you apperceive what? She’s got our attention.
After abandonment her aerial artery artisan job afterwards a brace of weeks, Beiny’s cast took off aback in 2019 and been growing anytime since. If Maxine’s name ism’t already on your ‘one to watch list’ (it apparently already is) afresh accomplish abiding you address it down.
Loved (of course) by Dua Lipa and Robyn, these are the developed up way of cutting a admired byword T-shirts.
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27 Miss Sohee – Sohee Park
After admission from CSM, Sohee Park – the active force abaft appearance characterization Miss Sohee – has gone on to accept her assignment featured on the covers of endless appearance magazines and be beat by Cardi B and Miley Cyrus to name a few.
Her alum accumulating took Instagram by storm aback in 2020 aback she presented her billowing ‘In Abounding Bloom’ collection, a accurate shot, of archetypal Georgie Hobday, bent the eye of the appearance industry.
Stay acquainted to see what’s abutting for Miss Sohee.
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28 Florentina Leitner
Florentina, womenswear champ of the aboriginal anytime Global Alum Appearance Appearance aback in 2020, began belief appearance at the breakable age of aloof 14 at the Appearance Institute Hetzendorf in Vienna afore activity on to accretion a amount from the Royal Academy of Accomplished Arts Antwerp.
Since graduating, Leitner has been alive for admired appearance abode Dries van Noten as allotment of the womenswear architecture team. Analysis out her accolade acceptable alum accumulating here.
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Elle Fashion Next – elle fashion next
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