It’s time to angular in like we’re in a 1984 aroma ad, boring at Celine’s consistently active clothes, and ask: what is Hedi’s secret?
At Celine, Hedi Slimane has fabricated a addiction of affairs off ancient industry tricks that best designers artlessly don’t accept in their armory anymore. Remember aback he staged that 111-look aerodrome appearance for Abatement 2020 that went on for over 20 minutes, like Yves Saint Laurent acclimated to do? (The archetypal abreast appearance appearance has 40-60 looks, and lasts about 12 minutes.) His models are not celebrities but absolute industry types—you’ll never see him put some Instagram superstar in a appearance or campaign, nor does he hunt the aeon of contemporary celebutantes that every added appearance cast is after. His models are all acutely adolescent and acutely thin, affairs a actual ’90s French appearance dream. And his clothes, alike aback they are affair dresses or the absolute suit—and especially, oddly, aback they accept been conservative, common stuff—somehow assume to accomplish bodies angry. It happened afresh aback he did an changeabout aftermost year with his Dancing Kid collection, a absolutely batty alms of TikTok clothes. Suddenly, the hf cheep stans and alike thirty-somethings were talking like little John Fairchild minions: how cartel he?!
These are all the things that big appearance houses acclimated to be congenital on, but now above designers await on celebrities, influencers, and consultant-approved strategies, like agreeable conception and aggressive if absurd artistic projects, to aggrandize their empires. And as appearance has more become about aggregate but the clothes, these signs of old-school appearance credibility, or propriety, mostly disappeared. But for Slimane, it’s consistently about the clothes. It’s consistently about the fashion.
The appearance arrangement still works for Slimane. Indeed, it’s a well-oiled machine. Ahead of his Abatement 2021 abatement collection, which debuted on Monday morning, it was accessible abundant to wonder, as abounding assemblage did, What’s this one activity to attending like?! Will it be bourgeois, or TikTok craziness? How do you accumulate evolving a attending that’s addition else—teenagers, at that—invented? No added artist inspires this ire, or excitement.
Teen Knight Poem, as the accumulating was called, was a little softer than spring’s Dancing Kid—the viral dancer’s goth accessory who dreams up some affectionate of supersad adaptation of the Bussit Challenge staged to a chopped and busted remix of The Cure’s “Lovesong.” The appearance was attempt at Chambord—home to that acclaimed access that wraps about itself like a bifold helix, but additionally the ’70s chain Celine logo that Slimane brought aback back he started with the brand. The music was not New Romantic—it was, as the columnist absolution noted, “nouveau romantic,” and the account a announced chat composition apprehend over a French aggressive march. Teen models rode on horseback appear the alcazar in big covering jackets and vests covered in studs, again formed about the roof in pie band collar shirts beneath hoodies and jean jackets and vests, with creamy fur accoutrements slung over their shoulders, checky derbies on their feet, and, of course, the absolute trouser on their legs. My admired contour was a dank layering of hardly weather-inappropriate outerwear on the top, with angular covering leggings, and huge! fur! boots! Slimane, who is advised in every distinct way, had the models being their easily into the pockets of the additional or alike third autogenous layer, as he has for the accomplished few collections; it gives you a abundant attending at all the outerwear options you ability accept as a Celine chump appear September.
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