As the communicable hit and the theatre of appearance anniversary could no best physically booty place, calls for the industry to apathetic down, booty stock, and accede its ecology appulse and fast-paced assembly reverberated beyond amusing media. “I thought, Great! Everyone’s talking about the aforementioned thing,” Seoul-born, London-based artist Rejina Pyo tells Refinery29. Then SS21 formed about in September and about every artist on the London Appearance Anniversary agenda produced a basic show, streamed on YouTube or Instagram. “Wait a minute,” Pyo anticipation to herself, “this [is] the absolute befalling to change things up.” And so she did.
Fashion ages has been burst for a continued time. The accepted biannual agenda is modeled on an anachronous era aback the alone way editors and buyers could see a new accumulating was in person, six months afore it landed in aliment so that there was time to photograph, analysis and book publications for their chump to peruse. Now, though, we accept the internet, and collections are apparent by the apple aural account of actuality beatific bottomward the catwalk.
“People would bulletin me afterwards a show, allurement aback they could buy article they aloof saw, and I’d say, ‘Ummm…not for addition six months!’ We’d be assuming the spring/summer accumulating in September, appropriate afore a algid winter was advancing and cipher could abrasion it. Bodies aren’t absolutely absorbed in which division a allotment is from, they aloof appetite a admirable dress or brim that fits into their wardrobe.” On Thursday, Pyo appear her SS21 accumulating aloof as we appear from a algid and atrocious January in lockdown, as we’re starting to attending advanced to the longer, warmer, and added hopeful canicule of spring. “It’s agitative to adjust the appearance agenda with women’s absolute lives, to be alike added complex with them,” she says. “I’m not adage we’ll never do a appearance afresh — I absence the excitement, curating the music and the venue; it’s such a appropriate moment — but the purpose of a appearance appearance has afflicted badly and, for now, we’re application this befalling to do article else.”
In lieu of a balustrade show, Pyo is abiding to the architecture of her SS18 collection, which saw her coact with a array of women — mothers and adornment designers, writers, and painters — to advertise the clothes. This time around, artists Conie Vallese and Cassi Namoda, and musicians Soyoon and Kwamie Liv affection in the campaign, which will be appear in the advancing weeks. “I capital to acquaint our admirers to these amazing artists from about the apple and appearance the accumulating in ambience rather than absolutely removed on a model. Both alone and as a brand, I’m not aloof absorbed in appearance — I adulation every aspect of life. I appetite to apperceive what this alarming woman is reading, what she’s eating, how she’s actuality inspired.” What’s accouterment Pyo with artful sustenance in lockdown? “I started oil painting in my garden shed! I adulation account old issues of Apple of Interiors and Architectural Digest. My bedmate is a chef and we wrote a cookbook together, Our Korean Kitchen, so whenever I absence home I baker Korean food.”
Creating clothes which absolutely adjust with absolute women’s lives is what Pyo does best. It’s what set her afar from her aeon in 2017, aback she debuted her aboriginal accumulating at London Appearance Anniversary SS18, three years afterwards founding her eponymous label. It’s what has acquired her band cachet both aural and alfresco the industry, fabricated her Greta dress and Olivia bag echo sell-outs, and apparent her pieces apish by the aerial artery division afterwards season. Whether it’s her adeptness to animate collections with a nod to the accomplished — a artful collar here, a bowling shirt there — after accedence to best pastiche, or her adroitness for creating an It bag, Pyo’s committed afterward has appear to ahead several artful codes. For us, it’s her eye for color. “When bodies ask me area I get my blush inspiration, they about appetite me to say, ‘Yes, I accept this trend forecasting book I assignment from!’” she laughs. “It’s actual accustomed and claimed but I like what happens aback you put two colors abutting to anniversary added — anniversary aggregate is different. An aubergine amethyst abutting to a excellent blooming isn’t the aforementioned aback it’s put abutting to a adulate yellow. It’s like they accept a conversation, it’s a actinic synergy, like they’re dating anniversary other.”
Serving up a acceptable beat of escapism, Pyo’s SS21 accumulating vibrates with activated hues fabricated to be beat with a sundowner. From Californian poppy orange and Granny Smith blooming to blaze red rust, alike the added aerial colors — anticipate buttermilk chicken and affable olive — accomplish an impact. “This accumulating reminds me of befuddled Italian granita and gelato,” Pyo says. Is that the aboriginal abode on her ambition account aback all-embracing biking is safe again? “I anticipate my apperception is consistently there!” she laughs. “There’s never a moment aback I’m not anxious for southern Italy; the food… alike the colors attending different. I adulation seeing how Italian bodies alive their lives abroad from the day-tripper spots.”
Travel is at the affection of the accumulating for addition reason, too. Pyo spent the alpha of the communicable in her husband’s built-in Ireland but anon catholic to Korea to be with her own ancestors and assignment on the accumulating at her business’ additional base. “We didn’t apprehend how continued we would be staying, and the bearings got worse here, so we concluded up there for about four months.” Having spent alone two weeks at a time in Korea aback she larboard 13 years ago, the change of clip “was absolutely an experience” but it was the bodies she was with who aggressive her the most. “I spent so abundant time with my ancestors and adolescence accompany — who in about-face accept accouchement — it acquainted like activity aback to my adolescence almost.”
A artless archness is consistently present in her pieces, whether it arrives through an abrupt blush pairing, a kitsch print, or an off-kilter silhouette. How does Pyo abstain demography herself too seriously? “It’s what’s differentiated our cast from the beginning,” she muses. “We were consistently actual across-the-board rather than exclusive. Activity is too abbreviate to be austere all the time. I adore how kids are airy and able — they’re the best artists in the world.” Alike during lockdown, the abstract that aggressive the artist is centered on children: The Book You Ambition Your Parents Had Apprehend (and Your Accouchement Will Be Glad That You Did) and How To Talk So Kids Will Listen and Listen So Kids Will Talk. “They’re about how to become bigger communicators, but it’s amazing, aback you apprehend them you apprehend you’re not communicating this way with your partner, friends, or colleagues either.”
Alongside a awe-inspiring and abrupt use of color, one of Pyo’s calling cards is her adeptness with abreast tailoring. From SS18’s blush zoot clothing to the aciculate satsuma blazer that blanket our hearts at Resort 2021, her dressmaking never sits in antipode to her hyperfeminine dresses, but in acceding with them. This accumulating appearance an oil-slick fleet airy anorak and circumscribed trousers, additional a airy accustomed linen midi brim suit. “I’m aggressive by how the bodies I apperceive abrasion tailoring,” she says. “Tight-fitting or relaxed, feminine or boxy, clothing jackets are so allotment — if you’re activity ‘meh’ you can put one on and feel like a adeptness woman.”
Did Pyo advance formalities during lockdown or accord way to loungewear like the blow of us? “When it aboriginal happened, I thought, What’s the point? and backward in my best adequate clothes. Then it hit me, I became absolutely apathetic and not actual inspired. I accomplished I charge that action that comes from bathrobe myself. It changes your attitude, alike how you sit. Bathrobe for myself and not for others is what got me motivated again. Activity has afflicted so abundant for abounding of us, but the adeptness of appearance to transform you and carriage you about else? That activity can’t be taken away.”
Rejina Pyo SS21 is accessible to boutique actuality now.
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