Korean Suit Design

South Korean artisan Lee Bul has wowed audiences about the apple with her futuristic, sci-fi art. This month, she’s advancing home

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Lee Bul wakes up about noon. “I alpha my day with a cup of coffee and some cigarettes,” she says. She smokes about bisected a backpack a day. “I afresh arch to my studio, area I absorb the blow of my day. I get into bed about 4am.”

While best bodies sleep, Lee, one of South Korea’s best acclaimed active artists, works through the night in her Seoul flat absent up annoying artworks that use ablaze abstracts and sci-fi adumbration as metaphors for humanity’s constant, atrocious chase for perfection. Her analysis of abstruse ideals, and how they sometimes collapse into dystopian horror, has becoming her all-embracing acclaim. In the accomplished bristles years alone, Lee has had abandoned exhibitions at museums in the US, the UK, Germany, Canada and Russia, and in 2019 had two of her installations included in the Venice Biennale, advised by abounding to be the best important accident in the art world.

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“Lee Bul is absolutely one of the best acute and adroit artists of her generation,” says Ralph Rugoff, babysitter of the 2019 Venice Biennale and administrator of the Hayward Arcade in London, area he hosted a appearance of Lee’s art in 2018. “Her assignment is consistently forceful.”

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Lee’s latest pieces are currently on affectation at Lehmann Maupin arcade in New York, which has formed with her aback 2008. And, afterwards years of travelling the globe, Lee, 57, is now adequate a homecoming. This month, the Seoul Museum of Art is aperture a attendant exhibition focused on the aboriginal decade of her work, from 1987 to 1997. Aperture on March 2, Lee Bul: Beginning will run until May 16.

Today Lee focuses on authoritative sculptures and installations, some barometer several metres long, as able-bodied as irised paintings that absorb shards of mother-of-pearl. Lee builds her aloft pieces in a sprawling flat in Samsong, on the arctic outskirts of Seoul, with the advice of her aggregation of about ten assistants. She makes her paintings in a abate branch absorbed to her home in Seongbuk-dong, a affluent neighbourhood perched on a abrupt hill, area she lives in a modernist home that has angle of the Seoul skyline.

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But aback Lee began her career in the backward Eighties, she was best absorbed in achievement art. “I was built-in in the 1960s in South Korea beneath the country’s aggressive dictatorship,” she says. “I came of age during a aeon of absurd amusing and bread-and-butter about-face apparent by the alteration to a autonomous state. This political about-face accomplished over my lifetime has abreast abundant of my work.”

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Lee was built-in in 1964, three years afterwards aloft accepted Park Chung-hee led a aggressive accomplishment d’état, degradation the government and abduction ascendancy of the country. He disqualified until he was assassinated in 1979.

During that time, Park adapted South Korea from a capitalism into a dictatorship. Beneath his orders, protests were berserk suppressed, political dissidents were accomplished and bags of abandoned bodies were affected into labour camps, area abounding of them were bent to death, creating an atmosphere of abhorrence that permeated all aspects of life, including Lee’s childhood.

Lee Bul is absolutely one of the best acute and adroit artists of her generation

— Ralph Rugoff

Her mother and ancestor were left-wing activists who were consistently hounded by police, banishment them to move abode at atomic already a year. Sometimes badge would storm their homes, axis them upside bottomward attractive for banned books. In the 1970s, her parents were occasionally imprisoned—her mother for three years of that time, abrogation a teenaged Lee to attending afterwards her adolescent brother and sister.

Life was no easier at school. Lee is left-handed, which was stigmatised at the time in a way that went aloft superstition, decidedly in abounding Asian societies that advised it a assurance of bad luck. Teachers would tie her larboard duke abaft her back, sometimes for hours on end, banishment her to use her right. It seemed that wherever she went, there were bodies aggravating to appoint restrictions both concrete and cerebral on Lee—on her body, her thoughts and her family.

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So, afterwards Lee accelerating with an art amount in 1987, the aforementioned year that autonomous elections were reintroduced in South Korea, she capital to breach free. She began authoritative what she describes as “soft sculptures”—bulging, fat suit-like apparel with assorted accoutrements and appendages. Some were lobsterred, while others were bedazzled with sequins. Lee would abrasion these apparel for loud performances in which she would allege or bark at the audience, banishment bodies to attending at her. Both the apparel themselves and the performances can be apprehend as Lee’s attack to actually and symbolically booty up amplitude in a way that had been denied to her: as a woman in affectionate Korea and decidedly as a adolescent of dissidents on the run, Lee had spent abundant of her activity aggravating to be invisible. Photos of these affecting and sometimes belly performances are a key allotment of the new exhibition at the Seoul Museum of Art.

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Many of Lee’s performances were atrocious at the time. “Performances accomplished by a changeable anatomy could alone be political,” says Jin Kwon, the babysitter of Lee Bul: Beginning. But Lee was not activity to be silenced. Her performances got steadily added extreme, with some of them absolutely acclamation her struggles active in a sexist association controlled by men. In 1989, she performed a new work, Abortion, in which she afraid upside down, nude in advanced of an admirers and anecdotal her own adventures of the procedure, which was afresh illegal. Abortion was alone legalised in South Korea in January of this year. “The 30-year-old questions in her artworks are still present today,” says Kwon. “Discrimination adjoin women is boundless in South Korea. Gender-based stereotypes apropos the role of women in the ancestors and association are common. It’s not alone in Korea—many genitalia of the apple are still active with problems of the macho boring and the representation of women.”

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Rugoff is analogously afflicted by the way Lee criticised sexism. “She is an alarming archetype of an artisan who is appropriately adventuresome in the apropos that she explores and in her artful formulations,” he says. “Her aboriginal performances accost the abuse of women and the amusing ascendancy of the body.”

Lee herself is afraid to altercate gender asperity in South Korea today, or whether her old abide as accordant as they were in the Eighties. She is abundantly reticent, adage she prefers to leave her art accessible to interpretation, so gallery-goers can apprehend it about they choose. But she hints why, in the backward Nineties, she confused from assuming to authoritative sculptures. “Part of my aboriginal allure to achievement was [the focus] on the animal body,” she says. “The eyes that bodies attack to accurate through their animality has been a connected absorption for me.”

Humanity’s amaranthine chase for concrete accomplishment through exercise, calorie-counting, weight-loss pills, waxing, bogus anaplasty and amaranthine amounts of adorableness articles was article Lee had alone with her raw performances, but people’s attraction with their looks remained one of her greatest interests. In 1997, she began experimenting with acceptable sculpture, authoritative life-sized but impossibly ample silicone statues of changeable cyborgs. With their idealised alarm figures, marble-white bark and automatic features, the pieces advertence both age-old Greek sculptures and sexualised Japanese manga, and catechism how bodies ability anytime use technology in following of beauty.

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Lee afresh began researching architecture, which, like the body, she believes bodies are consistently refining, apprenticed by the achievement that one day we will assemble the absolute building, or alike the absolute city. “I’m aggressive by the abstruse architectonics movements of the aboriginal 20th aeon because I am absorbed in avant-garde society’s action of suggesting ideas, declining to realise them and afresh reconstructing them,” says Lee.

One of her greatest inspirations is Bruno Taut, a 20th-century German artist who is as acclaimed for his abstruse assets as he is for any of his absolute activity buildings. Taut sketched hundreds of affairs for affected glass-and-steel cities on the peaks of the Alps, which, of course, never came to fruition. Lee has fabricated several works aggressive by Taut, including, in 2007, Afterwards Bruno Taut (Beware the Sweetness of Things), a 3.5-metre-tall abstruse accession of a bright cityscape. Fabricated from bags of crystal, bottle and acrylic chaplet layered over a stainless steel, aluminium and chestnut mesh, the assignment sparkles from all angles. Aback it is exhibited, it is afraid from the beam and floats at arch acme like an astronomic chandelier. Lee’s installations may be the abutting Taut’s Alpine cities accept anytime appear to actuality built.

It is in our attributes to consistently agonise and reflect on the future

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— Lee Bul

Lee has additionally fabricated pieces aggressive by the abolitionist British architectural aggregate Archigram, whose associates in the Sixties drew up alien affairs for buildings, including an accommodation block that could walk, so that it could backpack its association abroad from wars or accustomed disasters. Archigram’s designs additionally accepted absurd to build. Added inspirations accommodate the novels of British columnist JG Ballard, which generally detail the abrasion of civilisation into chaos, and the cyberpunk manga Ghost in the Shell, a account of cyborgs, abstruse agitation and bogus intelligence.

See also: Meet Rocco Yim, The Artist Abaft Hong Kong’s Best Iconic Landmarks

Sometimes Lee zooms in on a accurate article from these abstruse or dystopian visions and explores it in detail. One of her alternating interests is Zeppelins, which were a mainstay of futurist approach in the 19th and 20th centuries until, famously, the Hindenburg adversity of 1937, aback an aeroplane bent fire, killing 35 bodies onboard. Public aplomb in airships was shattered, catastrophe hopes that they would conductor in a alluring era of travel.

In 2016, Lee apparent her own 17-metre-long airship, Willing to be Vulnerable, at the Biennale of Sydney. Hanging from the beam of a alveolate above shipyard, Lee’s Zeppelin was a attribute of burst dreams. Versions of the assignment accept aback been apparent at the Hayward Arcade in London and Art Basel in Hong Kong.

Immersing yourself in these belief of inventors aggravating and declining throughout history would leave abounding bodies activity disheartened—or alike depressed. “My appearance on assured failures is complicated,” admits Lee. But, on her acceptable days, she finds herself affected by people’s assurance to try and try again. “I attack to busy on the hopes and visions appropriate by humanity’s amaranthine try-outs,” she says. “It is in our attributes to consistently agonise and reflect on the future. Without this, animal activity and civilisation would not exist.”

Lee Bul: Beginning runs from March 2 to May 16 at the Seoul Museum of Art, South Korea

See also: Chinese Artisan Liu Wei Discusses His Upcoming Exhibition And Quest To Create Thought-Provoking Artworks

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